Ditch the crowds and see a more authentic side of the Netherlands
The Netherlands has so many treasures to explore that aren’t centered around Amsterdam. This journey explores Utrecht’s storied canals and church towers, with excursions to the historic Den Bosch and De Efteling. These destinations show off a different side of the Netherlands—without the crowds. Ready to discover what lies beyond the usual stops? Let’s go.
Utrecht
Arriving in Utrecht, you immediately sense a different rhythm from Amsterdam, despite the apparent similarities of canals and historic architecture. Founded as a Roman fortress in 47 CE and later developed into one of the Netherlands’ most significant religious centers during the Middle Ages.
The city’s unique split-level canals immediately distinguish it from any other Dutch city. Unlike Amsterdam’s waterways, Utrecht’s canals sit several meters below street level, with former storehouses now transformed into waterside restaurants and cafés. You can spend an evening dining directly alongside the Oudegracht (Old Canal) at one of these converted wharf cellars, the water gently lapping just meters from your table as servers arrive by boat with fresh seafood from the North Sea.
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Dominating the skyline, the 112-metre Dom Tower has stood watch over Utrecht since the 14th century. Tourists climb its 465 steps in guided groups during the day, arranging a private ascent at dusk. As the sun sets over the medieval city, you’ll enjoy panoramic views across the central Netherlands, with the lights of Amsterdam twinkling on clear evenings. Utrecht maintains a more authentic Dutch character than its more famous neighbor. This blend becomes apparent when exploring the hidden courtyards known as “hofjes” scattered throughout the old town.
The Centraal Museum, housed in a former medieval monastery, offers a comprehensive overview of Utrecht’s artistic heritage. Beyond the public galleries, the museum houses significant Dutch art collections that can be viewed by private arrangement. The works of the Utrecht Caravaggisti—local artists who brought Italian Baroque drama to Dutch painting in the 17th century—are particularly worth seeking out, showing a boldness that contrasts with the more familiar precision of their Amsterdam contemporaries.
As evening approaches, consider dining at Oudaen, a 13th-century city castle now housing a brewery and restaurant. In a private room overlooking the canal, you can sample house-brewed beers paired with contemporary interpretations of traditional Dutch cuisine. The building itself narrates Utrecht’s history—from its origins as a noble residence to its current incarnation as a culinary destination, with medieval stone walls and wooden beams creating an atmosphere no modern restaurant could replicate.
If you’re interested in 19th-century architecture, the Winkel van Sinkel presents a fascinating counterpoint to Utrecht’s medieval core. This neoclassical former department store—now a grand café, restaurant, and cultural venue—exemplifies Dutch commercial architecture with its striking cast-iron façade. Enjoying an aperitif on its terrace offers prime people-watching opportunities along the Oudegracht.
Grand Hotel Karel V is one of our favorite luxury hotels in town. Dating from the 14th century, this former monastery later served as the headquarters of a medieval knightly order before its conversion to a five-star hotel. Its extensive gardens, unusual for a city-centre property, are an ideal retreat after a day of exploration.
Day Trip: Eindhoven
Traveling south from Utrecht to Eindhoven presents a striking contrast—from medieval preservation to modernist reinvention in under an hour by train. Begin your exploration at Strijp-S, a former Philips industrial complex now transformed into a creative district housing design studios, galleries, and restaurants. Walking through this neighborhood reveals how thoughtfully Eindhoven has repurposed its industrial heritage—factory windows now illuminate artist workshops, and former testing facilities host design exhibitions. The Ketelhuis, once a boiler house providing power to Philips factories, now serves exceptional cuisine.
If you’re passionate about contemporary design, a visit to Piet Hein Eek’s workshop and gallery offers a rare opportunity to observe the creation process of one of the Netherlands’ most influential designers. Eek’s complex, housed in a former Philips ceramics factory, includes his production facilities, showroom, and an exceptional restaurant where even the furniture and tableware demonstrate his philosophy of beautiful sustainability. Arrange a private tour with one of his team to witness how his distinctive recycled wood furniture comes together—perhaps even selecting a bespoke piece to be shipped home.
Kazerne exemplifies Eindhoven’s design-focused approach to hospitality. This multifunctional space occupies a former military police barracks and adjacent industrial buildings, now transformed into an exhibition space, restaurant, and exclusive eight-room hotel. Dining at Kazerne offers the unique experience of being surrounded by museum-quality design pieces that rotate regularly, allowing you to engage with Dutch design innovation literally at their table.
For overnight accommodation that continues this design immersion, staying at one of Kazerne’s eight exclusive suites places you literally within a continuously evolving design exhibition. Each room features work by a different designer or collective, allowing for an immersive appreciation impossible in a traditional gallery visit.
Day Trip: De Efteling
Despite its initial appearance as an attraction primarily for families, De Efteling rewards the culturally curious visitor with its deep connection to European folklore and fairy tales, many drawn from the Brothers Grimm and Hans Christian Andersen. The park’s original designer, Anton Pieck, was a celebrated Dutch illustrator whose distinctive aesthetic—somewhere between Victorian storybook and Dutch Golden Age painting—informs every aspect of the park’s design, from its architecture to its landscaping.
Unlimited Fast Passes eliminate waiting times and can be combined with a personal guide who shares insider knowledge about the park’s artistic inspirations. You’ll learn how the Fairytale Forest, the park’s original attraction from 1952, represented a cultural reclamation project after World War II, reintroducing traditional European stories when American popular culture was becoming increasingly dominant. Your guide might point out how animatronic figures created decades ago still perform with a fluid naturalism that digital technology struggles to replicate.
