Discover Argentina in Evita and Madonna's footsteps
Madonna cycled through more costume changes in Evita than any other leading lady in Hollywood history. She did this as she sang of how Colonel Perón is the “only one man who can lead any workers’ regime”.
Evita remains Madonna’s one truly great leading role on the big screen: it was the only role she was born to play. Walking through Argentina’s capital today, you can discover the sights and sounds of the city through the 1996 movie musical.
Eva Perón’s transformation from small-town girl to Glamazon First Lady may have been an odd choice for a musical, but Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice made it work. It’s a story about overcoming adversity while wearing very expensive clothes, so it resonates with LGBTQ+ audiences and Madonna.
The Plaza de Mayo
The heart of Buenos Aires’ political life, Plaza de Mayo serves as both a key filming location and the actual stage where Eva Perón delivered her most passionate speeches. The pink-hued Casa Rosada (Presidential Palace) dominates the square’s eastern edge, its famous balcony serving as the backdrop for some of the film’s most powerful moments. This is where Madonna, as Evita, performed “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” to thousands of extras, recreating the iconic moment where the real Eva addressed her beloved “descamisados” (shirtless ones).
Standing in the plaza today, you can almost hear the echoes of Evita’s voice as she championed workers’ rights and touted her husband’s political achievements. The square remains a gathering place for political demonstrations, maintaining its role as the pulse of Argentine democracy that Eva Perón helped shape.
Café Tortoni
While not a primary filming location, Café Tortoni represents the sophisticated Buenos Aires society that Eva navigated as she rose from rural poverty to the pinnacle of Argentine high society. Established in 1858, this legendary café has welcomed everyone from tango legends to political figures, including the Peróns themselves.
The mahogany tables, marble columns, and vintage photographs create an atmosphere that perfectly captures the Buenos Aires of Eva’s era. Sipping coffee here while surrounded by the same Art Nouveau décor that Eva would have known provides a tangible connection to her world of glamour and political intrigue.
The Cementerio de la Recoleta: Eva’s Final Resting Place
Perhaps no location carries more emotional weight than the Recoleta Cemetery, where Eva Perón’s remains rest in the Duarte family mausoleum. The film’s opening sequence, featuring Madonna’s haunting rendition of “Requiem for Evita,” was shot among these elaborate marble tombs and mausoleums that house Argentina’s elite.
The cemetery itself tells the story of Buenos Aires’ aristocracy, the very class that initially rejected Eva but eventually had to accept her place in Argentine history. Finding her modest black granite tomb among the ornate monuments creates a poignant moment of reflection on her journey from an illegitimate child from rural Argentina to one of the most powerful women in the world. A woman who knew a thing or two about Blond Ambition, just like the woman who would play her on the big screen.
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San Telmo
The cobblestone streets of San Telmo provided the perfect backdrop for depicting Eva’s early days in Buenos Aires. This bohemian neighborhood, with its antique shops, tango halls, and colonial architecture, represents the working-class Buenos Aires where Eva first sought her fortune as a young actress.
While the film took some creative liberties with her story, walking through San Telmo’s Sunday market at Plaza Dorrego or catching an impromptu tango performance helps visitors understand the passionate, artistic spirit of the city that shaped Eva’s character.
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Teatro Colón
Although Eva’s acting career was modest (like Madonna’s!), the magnificent Teatro Colón represents the cultural aspirations of Buenos Aires during her era. This world-renowned opera house, with its perfect acoustics and stunning architecture, is one of the cultural treasures of the city.
The theater’s guided tours reveal the grandeur that defined Buenos Aires’ golden age, when the city rivaled Paris and London as a cultural capital.
Puerto Madero
While Puerto Madero’s gleaming skyscrapers and renovated warehouses didn’t exist during Eva’s lifetime, this modern waterfront district houses the Museo Evita, which provides context for understanding both the historical figure and Madonna’s interpretation. The museum’s collection of Eva’s gowns, personal items, and political memorabilia helps separate fact from fiction in her remarkable story.
Beyond the Tourist Trail: Eva’s Enduring Impact
Exploring Buenos Aires in search of Evita reveals a city still grappling with her complex legacy. Street art celebrating her image adorns buildings throughout the city, while political discussions in cafés often reference her influence on Argentine politics. The film took Hollywood liberties with her story, and some hardline Peronists campaigned against Madonna, fearing her film would tarnish Evita’s legacy.
From championing women’s suffrage to establishing charitable foundations, Eva’s brief but influential life left an indelible mark on Argentine society. The less charitable interpretations of her legacy point to her authoritarian streak, lavish wardrobe, and fanatical devotion to her husband.
Walk in Evita’s Footsteps
Exploring Buenos Aires in search of Evita reveals a city still grappling with her complex legacy. Street art celebrating her image adorns buildings throughout the city, while political discussions in cafés often reference her influence on Argentine politics. The film took Hollywood liberties with her story, and some hardline Peronists campaigned against Madonna, fearing her film would tarnish Evita’s legacy.
From championing women’s suffrage to establishing charitable foundations, Eva’s brief but influential life left an indelible mark on Argentine society. The less charitable interpretations of her legacy point to her authoritarian streak, lavish wardrobe and fanatical devotion to her husband.
Buenos Aires remains a city where the past and present intertwine, where the spirit of Eva Perón continues to inspire and infuriate new generations of Argentines. Walking in Evita’s footsteps is a great excuse to discover Buenos Aires.
