Beyond Amsterdam: Discovering The Hague & Rotterdam

Discover the Netherlands beyond Amsterdam

The Netherlands is home to far more than just the canals and culture of Amsterdam. For the discerning traveller looking for an authentic Dutch experience with a touch of luxury, the southern region is a great alternative. Here, the regal setting of The Hague contrasts beautifully with Rotterdam’s bold architecture, while Delft and Schiedam make for distinctive day-trip experiences.

The Hague

Known to the Dutch as Den Haag, The Hague has served as the seat of Dutch government since 1584. Unlike Amsterdam, it never developed as a commercial centre but rather as an administrative capital and royal residence. As you wander through the Binnenhof, the 13th-century complex housing the Dutch Parliament, you can sense the weight of history in every cobblestone. The city’s diplomatic character—housing the working offices of King Willem-Alexander, the International Court of Justice, and over 150 international organisations—lends it a cosmopolitan air quite distinct from other Dutch cities.

A morning at the Mauritshuis reveals the intimate scale of Dutch Golden Age art in its perfect setting—a 17th-century mansion where Vermeer’s “Girl with a Pearl Earring” gazes from the wall, and Rembrandt’s masterpieces are displayed in rooms that feel more like an aristocrat’s home than a museum. Consider arranging a private viewing outside regular hours for an encounter with these treasures, the morning light streaming through tall windows illuminating details often missed by daytime crowds.

After your cultural immersion, a stroll through the shopping streets of Hoogstraat and Denneweg gives you a distinctly Hague experience. Unlike Amsterdam’s more commercial shopping areas, these streets retain their historic character while housing contemporary luxury retailers. You might discover an antique silver piece with royal provenance or a bespoke perfume created exclusively for the diplomatic community. As evening approaches, dinner at Calla’s is always a good idea. The seven-course seasonal tasting menu might feature North Sea fish prepared with Japanese precision or heritage vegetables from royal estates.

No visit to The Hague would be complete without experiencing the seaside district of Scheveningen. The magnificent Kurhaus hotel stands as a monument to Belle Époque glamour, its domed central hall transporting you to an era when European royalty came to take the sea air. Even if not staying overnight, pause for afternoon tea or evening cocktails on the terrace overlooking the North Sea.

For accommodation that matches the city’s royal heritage, Hotel Des Indes presents an irresistible option. Once a 19th-century palace, this landmark has hosted royalty and celebrities for over a century. The opulent interiors, with their rich fabrics and antiques, offer a glimpse into The Hague’s aristocratic past. If you prefer more contemporary luxury, The Collector occupies several historic buildings and features an outstanding art collection dispersed throughout its stylishly appointed rooms and public spaces.

Rotterdam

Arriving in Rotterdam from The Hague presents a striking contrast. Where The Hague is more monument to old-world Europe, Rotterdam is a distinctly modern city. The devastating bombing of Rotterdam’s city centre in 1940 forced the city to reinvent itself. Today, Rotterdam is filled with modernist buildings – it had to be rebuilt from the ground up.

Begin your exploration at the Kunsthal Rotterdam, a Rem Koolhaas-designed museum that itself represents the city’s architectural philosophy. Unlike traditional museums with clearly delineated exhibition spaces, here the building’s sloping floors and unexpected sightlines create a journey of discovery that mirrors Rotterdam’s own reinvention. The rotating exhibitions of art, design, and photography reflect the city’s international outlook and championing of the experimental and avant-garde.

At lunchtime, the Market Hall (Markthal) beckons—far from an ordinary food market, this architectural marvel houses food vendors beneath a soaring ceiling adorned with an enormous artwork known as the “Horn of Plenty.” The hall’s distinctive horseshoe shape creates a covered square that protects visitors from the elements. Select artisanal Dutch cheeses, locally cured meats, and freshly baked bread for a picnic, or reserve a table at one of the restaurants along the perimeter of the market.

In the evening, Rotterdam’s waterfront reveals the city’s shipping heritage—Europe’s largest port has cultivated an international outlook and entrepreneurial spirit unlike anywhere else in the Netherlands. A water taxi journey across the Maas River offers spectacular views of the city’s skyline, including the three connected towers of De Rotterdam, another Koolhaas masterpiece that appears to shift its form as you approach.

For a nightcap, the former Holland America Line headquarters, now Hotel New York, has a magnificent bar where you can sip Dutch genever while contemplating the view across the water where thousands once departed for new lives in America. The building’s transformation from shipping office to luxury hotel mirrors Rotterdam’s own evolution from industrial port to design destination.

Day Trip: Delft

Between The Hague and Rotterdam lies Delft, a picturesque small city that seems frozen in the Golden Age. A morning wandering its peaceful canals and market square reveals why Vermeer chose to spend his entire life here, finding endless inspiration in its quality of light and intimate scale.
The Royal Delft Experience offers far more than a typical factory tour. As the last remaining original Delftware factory from the 17th century, it connects visitors to centuries of craftsmanship. Beyond observing master painters at work, arrange a private workshop where you can create your own piece under expert guidance, learning techniques passed down through generations. The resulting personalised Delftware makes for a meaningful souvenir with a story that goes far beyond the typical tourist purchase.

For lunch, De Centrale presents a fascinating study in contrasts—Michelin-starred cuisine served in a former electricity station. The industrial heritage of the building is respected and highlighted in the design, while the menu focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. After lunch, a private canal tour offers a different perspective on Delft’s architecture and history. Unlike Amsterdam’s busy waterways, Delft’s canals maintain a tranquil character that allows for intimate exploration. Arrange for champagne and local delicacies to be served on board as you glide under historic bridges and past gabled houses, many dating from the 1600s when Delft was among the wealthiest cities in the Netherlands.

Day Trip: Schiedam

Less known to international travellers, Schiedam is just a short journey from Rotterdam. Once the world centre of jenever (Dutch gin) production, Schiedam’s historic centre is dominated by the tallest traditional windmills in the world, once used to grind grain for the distilleries that lined its canals.
The National Jenever Museum, located in a former distillery, provides fascinating insights into the production and cultural significance of the Netherlands’ traditional spirit. Arrange a private tasting with the museum’s expert to sample premium and aged jenevers unavailable elsewhere, learning how this Dutch spirit influenced the development of English gin and how today’s master distillers are reviving historic recipes.

You’ll see another, quintessentially Dutch side to the Netherlands beyond the confines of Amsterdam.