Lucknow and Varanasi: A Luxury Indian Culinary Journey

Days 1 to 3: Lucknow

Arrive in Lucknow and settle in before an afternoon exploring Bara Imambara, the vast eighteenth-century hall built without wooden supports, and the winding lanes of the old city that surround it.

Your following days are given over to Lucknow’s food, guided by a private culinary expert who leads you through Chowk to family-run kitchens serving galouti kebab, ground so finely with a proprietary blend of spices that it needs no teeth to enjoy, and kakori kebab, cooked over charcoal on skewers said to have been designed for a Nawab who found conventional kebabs too tough.

You will taste Lucknow’s famous dum-style biryani, a dish cooked in a sealed pot so that rice, meat and spice slowly become one, alongside nihari, a rich stew simmered overnight. Between meals, wander Chowk’s markets for chikankari embroidery, a craft as closely tied to Lucknow’s identity as its food.

Days 4 to 6: Varanasi

A short flight brings you to Varanasi, and the change is immediate. This is a city built directly onto the Ganges, its ghats stepping down into the water along miles of riverfront, and your days here move to the rhythm of the river itself.

Rise before dawn for a private boat along the Ganges as the city wakes and pilgrims gather at the water’s edge, then spend the rest of the morning exploring Varanasi’s own food culture on a guided walk through its old lanes.

Kachori Gali serves kachori and spiced potato from stalls that open before sunrise, Dashashwamedh Ghat is lined with chaat vendors serving Varanasi’s distinctive tomato-based street food, and family-run shops nearby pour lassi thick with cream and topped with pistachio.

Evenings bring the Ganga Aarti, a ritual of fire and chant performed nightly at the water’s edge, best watched from a private boat just offshore.

Day 7: Departure

A final morning at leisure before your transfer to the airport for your onward flight home.

Good to Know

Lucknow and Varanasi are well connected by short domestic flights, making this an easy pairing for a food-focused week.

Both cities reward an appetite for walking as much as an appetite for food, since much of what makes each kitchen and street stall distinctive is best reached on foot through their old quarters.

Winter mornings in Varanasi bring a seasonal treat called malaiyo, a saffron-scented milk foam served only during the cooler months, so travelers visiting between November and February should ask their guide to seek it out.