Here are the designer reshaping the luxury market
LGBTQ+ designers have long dominated the fashion world. Naomi Campbell once said that she “wouldn’t exist without gay men”. In this article, we’ll share our favorite designers reshaping the luxury market.
The current state of ultra-luxury fashion is evolving as new luxury markets emerge, especially in Asia. Major fashion houses continue to hold their iconic status, but a shift is happening where new designers are challenging established norms with fresh perspectives. Modern ultra-luxury fashion is embracing diversity—especially in terms of gender, race, and body types—offering more inclusive collections that cater to a wider audience. The price tags remain resolutely exclusionary.
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Harris Reed
Harris Reed, known for his gender-fluid designs, has quickly become a trailblazer in the fashion world. His collections blend elements of traditional luxury with bold, avant-garde statements, incorporating oversized silhouettes, dramatic capes, and luxurious fabrics. Harris Reed’s designs often play with the boundaries between masculinity and femininity, offering a refreshing and inclusive take on high fashion. His work has been worn by celebrities like Harry Styles and Florence Welch, further cementing his place in luxury fashion. He went to Central Saint Martins (check) and he comes from a bouji family (check).
Jonathan Anderson (JW Anderson)
Jonathan Anderson, the British designer behind the luxury brand JW Anderson, is renowned for his boundary-pushing designs. His collections blend traditional craftsmanship with a modern, gender-fluid approach to fashion. Anderson is celebrated for deconstructing classic silhouettes and experimenting with contrasting materials. His ability to challenge the conventional boundaries of menswear and womenswear has earned him widespread acclaim, positioning JW Anderson as a luxury brand that resonates with a contemporary, progressive audience.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens, an icon in the luxury fashion world, is known for his dark, edgy aesthetic and groundbreaking designs. His collections often feature gender-neutral pieces, oversized silhouettes, and gothic-inspired elements. Owens is a master of reinterpreting luxury fashion with a focus on individual expression, making him a leading figure in modern fashion. He has cultivated a striking aesthetic for himself, looking rather like he could have been a member of one of the more elegant goth rock bands.
Olivier Rousteing (Balmain)
Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain, is one of the most prominent figures in contemporary luxury fashion. As a gay designer, Rousteing has used his platform to advocate for diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry. His collections emphasize high-end craftsmanship with a bold, modern aesthetic, and his campaigns highlight diverse models, reinforcing the importance of representation in fashion.
Balmain’s signature style combines intricate tailoring, luxurious fabrics, and statement embellishments such as gold buttons, metallic accents, and sharp silhouettes. Additionally, Balmain’s strong social media presence and collaborations with celebrities and influencers have helped to establish it as a symbol of contemporary luxury.
Viktor&Rolf
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, the Dutch design duo behind Viktor & Rolf, are known for their conceptual and avant-garde approach to luxury fashion. Their collections are often filled with dramatic and exaggerated silhouettes, incorporating surreal elements and storytelling. As openly gay designers, they’ve been champions of pushing boundaries and embracing creativity in its most extreme form. Their haute couture collections challenge the norms of fashion and encourage bold self-expression, making them key players in redefining luxury fashion. Their designs are so bold you could imagine Lady Gaga asking them to tone it down. The line between art and fashion blurs, as you’ll see if you watch their eye-popping runway shows.