Juchitán: The Vela de las Intrépidas

Join the muxes of Juchitán for their November vela, with a fruit parade, a candlelit mass and a night of dancing in Zapotec dress.

The Muxes of the Isthmus

Juchitán de Zaragoza sits on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in southern Oaxaca, a Zapotec town where the muxes have been part of daily life for generations. Muxes are people assigned male at birth who live in a role between or beyond man and woman, and in Juchitán they are recognized as a distinct identity.

A local story says the town’s patron saint, San Vicente Ferrer, was carrying a bag of muxes across the world when it split open over Juchitán.

Each November, the muxes host their own vela, or festival, and visitors are welcome to join with a guide who knows the community.

The Velas of Juchitán

Velas are the great celebrations of the Isthmus, held throughout the year by families, neighborhoods, and associations. Each has its rituals, its music, and its strict dress code, with women in embroidered huipiles and long enaguas and men in white guayaberas.

The muxe vela follows the same traditions, which is part of what makes it so powerful. It places the muxes at the center of the town’s most important social ritual.

A Celebration Born in 1976

The Vela was founded in 1976 by a group of muxes who called themselves Las Auténticas Intrépidas Buscadoras del Peligro, the Authentic, Intrepid Seekers of Danger. It began as a small private party at a time when muxes faced open persecution. Among its founders was the activist Óscar Cazorla, whose home was the first gathering place.

Registering as a civil association gave the group legal standing, and the party grew into a three-day festival that now draws thousands of visitors. In 2025, it marked its 50th edition.

The Fruit Parade and the Mass

The celebrations begin with the Regada de Frutas, a parade in which participants throw fruit and small gifts to the crowds lining the streets. Later, a mass is held in honor of the muxes, followed by a procession through town.

These moments show how deeply the festival is woven into the life of Juchitán. Families, neighbors, and local officials all take part.

The Night of the Vela

The main event is the vela itself, a long night of music, dancing, and food beneath lights and canopies. A queen is crowned, bands play sones and cumbias, and the dance floor stays full until the early hours.

Your guide can explain the etiquette and make introductions, so you take part as a welcomed visitor rather than an onlooker. The festival closes with the Lavada de Olla, when the pots from the feast are washed and the community gathers one last time. Oaxaca recognized same-sex marriage in 2019, and by 2022 it was legal in every state in Mexico.

Planning Your Vela Experience

The vela takes place each November, with dates set by the organizers. Juchitán is several hours by road from Oaxaca City or a short drive from Ixtepec airport. Dress codes are taken seriously, and your guide can help you find appropriate clothing locally.

Out Of Office can arrange a guide with close ties to the community, private transfers, and a stay in Oaxaca before or after the festival. Your LGBTQ+ travel specialist can also build the vela into one of our culture vacations or a longer journey through Mexico.